A very special day.
That was how I started my journal entry for 2 May. Our last day in Lebanon, and our first day in Syria.
(By way of background, Ibiza gal & I were away for 15 days from 29 April for our Middle East jaunt - we visited Lebanon, Syria & Jordan. Came home on Day 16 - 14 May - in time to celebrate Mothers Day with the family, with yummylicious cake from Awfully Chocolate, briyani & seafood -- what I really missed being away from home, we ate so much lamb there :)
It was one of those long days on the road. But it turned out to be brilliant.
Our journey started at 8am at Quality Inn hotel at Tripoli, Lebanon (not Tripoli, Libya ;). Met our new driver, Maher, who I remembered as being very tall. Dark hair. He had a huge car - it was a Buick. We don't have such flashy humongous cars in Singapore. Hey, we were travelling in style coz Maher had even put in blinds at the back and side mirrors. Plus it was roomy inside :)
One hour drive to the lovely mountainside town of Bcharre (pronounced Ber-shar-ray), one of the loveliest towns I've had the pleasure to see in all my travels. Looked exactly like it came out of Europe. Snow capped mountains, the bluest skies, little waterfalls, little gurgling streams, gorges cut from the waters from the mountains.
We didn't sleep at all coz Maher kept a constant chatter on all things Lebanon - politics, history, society, you name it. We were very happily engaged -- especially after Melhem, who didn't speak much English and who was bohchup about his job.
From Bcharre, we went right up to the top to see the snowfields. People skied there in winter. Saw snowskis and the cable cars which ferried people up the hills. Still a bit of snow left -- pretty white icing on brown v-shaped cakes. The air was fresh, bracing.
A wonderful bonusWe drove down the hills and we thought we were on our way towards Baalbek via Beirut. But no! Maher took a little detour on this small road -- said he wanted to show us cedar trees. We said, hey, we've seen it from afar, that's enough. Ibiza gal said, I don't want to get lost. This was certainly turning out to be a Grimm Fairy Tale - Hansel & Gretel anyone? ;)
After 20 minutes of driving of dirt road, we came upon The Cedars. A little park where the remnants of the famous Cedars of Lebanon still remained. And what a BEAUTIFUL MAGNIFICENT sight it was. Worth the time, worth the scare ;)
Beautiful trees they are with verdant leaves -- they look like a cross between christmas and pine trees. But stand a lot taller. Magnificent. God's wonderful grace. (Sad there are so few left - overexploited to the point of extinction).
There was a hauntingly beautiful sculpture made out of cedar tree - what else - of faces carved from the wood.
You will see photos of these people! Bcharre photos are some of the best I took in the whole trip -- must be inspired, in more ways than one of course ;)We thanked Maher so much for showing us The Cedars, which he totally insisted and we totally desisted. It wasn't in the itinenary -- and he just did that because he knew we oughta see it.
This was probably one of those surreal sublime moments where one feels at peace and calm with nature, in the face of such incredible yet simple beauty. I did. WOW just doesn't describe it.
We left The Cedars and drove down Bcharre towards Beirut, in utter contentment and gratitude. A little bit in awe of Big G's grand designs too ;)
On the way down Bcharre, eagle eyed Maher spotted something on the road. We stopped, got out of the car and he took something from the ground -- it was a tortoise. In the middle of the road. Must have been half scared to death by the vehicles. He placed the tortoise on the grass patch at the side of the road. He saves animals too! Hero ;)
It was a long long ride to Baalbek - 3 hours plus from Bcharre. The mountain pass a short cut from Bcharre to Baalbek was still closed due to the presence of snow. So we had to take the long long route to Baalbek. Which was probably meant to be -- because that gave us so much more time to talk to Maher.
Whom by this time, we grew incredibly fond of. He made us laugh with his silly, outrageous comments. He was very insightful and knowledgeable -- and I got my money's worth in getting his responses on Lebanese politics, Rafik Hariri, Syria, Lebanese society, religion etc Finally, after Melhem, here was someone whom we could communicate with!
Lunch at Chtourama Market was delightful. It was a colourful place with many visitors who pop by to snack and drink. Maher met so many people he knew there -- guess he's a regular. Plus looked like he was one of those friendly people, whom other people naturally gravitated towards.
There was George, a very funny Armenian man, who's second wife was a Muslim lady - why Maher told us that, we have no idea. But George was fun! He said outrageous things too and made us laugh.
While I was at the loo, a Jordanian man made eyes at Maher. Maher told us to look at the man -- and as soon as we were out of the store, he told us about it. We cracked up. Why anyone would think Maher was gay was anybody's guess. Staring at me -- I can understand ;)
More quality time to converse, discuss, debate, argue even on the road trip towards Baalbek. Maher talked about women with "bad morals" who stay out on their own and have their boyfriends over in their homes. All very underground. Too funny! Happens in Singapore - and better to be above ground about these things eh?
Maher's view is that people should be left to do what they want to do. We were outraged. What sort of society would that be? We fought tooth and nail about that position -- until Maher refused to address the issue. He changed subjects! Not exactly an admission of defeat -- he cant be defeated coz he's a lawyer to be. And sounds like he doesn't usually lose ;)
It was a lovely side trip to view the largest stone in the world, which was a stone's throw from Baalbek. Met the nice man who's making it his life's aim to preserve this stone. He runs a small souvenir shop. His young handsome son served us very strong bitter Turkish coffee - yikes! But thanks for the hospitality :)
Got one of the best presents of the journey for myself there -- a white t-shirt with a green verdant cedar tree and the word "Lebanon" in red under it. Also got a small guidebook on Baalbek.
Boy were we hassled in Baalbek, site of ancient Roman ruins. Very well-preserved Roman columns, temples, niches, statues. These Romans were fantastic engineers, designers and architects. Thousands of years after the construction of these gigantic mini cities, the sculptures, columns etc still stand. What will be the modern (21st Century) world's legacy for future generations? What will immortalise us, I wonder?
This was one place in Lebanon we got hassled by touts selling guidebooks, caps, chewing gum etc. It was sad. M said that this area was neglected by the federal government, so it was much poorer than the rest of the country. This area was also predominantly Shiite -- we saw the lovely ornate mosques done in Persian splendour in the area -- so wonder if that has anything to do with the neglect.
We had an issue at Baalbek, which annoyed us. The local guide at the site didn't agree to the payment that the agency had allocated M to pay the guide, so we waited for some time before we started our tour of Baalbek. So M argued, we waited. It was over 5,000 Lebanese pounds. I walked to M and clearly annoyed -- at him too, said, Look we'll pay the difference, just let's not waste anymore time. M was not pleased at me -- he looked at me with a big frown. I walked away.
Took a picture of the entrance of the ruins -- massive Roman columns and marble staircase from ancient times leading to the main ruins -- which looked brilliant under the sunlight and the incredibly blue sky.
Baalbek is probably one of the best Roman ruins we visited -- or at least, one which I liked the most. Next to Apamea. Palmyra was incredibly well-preserved, but there wasn't a soul and magnificence about the place like Baalbek. I also liked Qalaat Samaan or San Simeon Cathedral in Syria.
Our guide was a grand old man who walked with a cane. Spoke with a crisp British accent. His teacher was English. Extremely knowledgeable of Baalbek -- when I was listening haha I was too busy taking photos, trying to get that elusive photo fit for the National Geographic ;)
Saw two cute cats basking in the sun ;) Didnt get to take too many photos of animals on this trip.
After Baalbek, we went to Aanjar - supposed Ummayad ruins. But the ruins were so Roman in style, the Ummayad kings probably worked over the Roman ruins. The whole town of Aanjar and its surrounds are populated by Armenians. Our guide was one, his name was Aswadur. which translates to "Given by God." WOW.
Anyways during the 1980s, the Syrian army invaded Lebanon and Aanjar was the first site they landed in. They made Aanjar ruins the site of the operations. They destroyed so much of the ancient lands then. (Such a bad neighbourhood!)
Another nice thing happened here. We were close to the end of our tour of the site and Aswadur was leading us to the entrance, last stop was the Baths. M was waiting there. Nice!
When we went to the Baths area, he came up to me, as if everyone else was absent, looked straight at me and asked, How's everything? Is everything good? Didn't matter what he said, what matters was he was there, by MY side ;) By then, I was sold - hook, line and sinker :D
Our lovely day together was coming to a close, and we both wanted what little time left to hang out, I reckon.
Then there was the drive towards the Syrian border crossing. 6plus and Ibiza & I were hungry. We had 3 pieces of lebanese sweetmeats left. 1 for each of us, including M. If we were hungry, surely he was too.
So I offered it to him. He asked me, you hungry huh? Yeah, pretty much. I urged him to take the sweet, he was driving - he probably was hungrier. What he said stumped me.
He turned to me and said, "You are so beautiful." Pause. Me - STUMPED. "You are hungry and you're thinking of me." He smiled, huge one. I don't recall what I said or did. This man stumps me ever so often ;) I had absolutely no witty comebacks haha
We met the wonderful Kamel Hakim at the Syrian border immigration. Mr Kamel must have been a looker in his younger years, with his grey eyes. He used to teach English (lit?) at university, now he tutors in English and his main job is in tourism. He was extremely passionate about his country -- understandably so, after being in Syria. We loved speaking to him coz he was full of recommendations, he spoke impeccable English (he was living in Toronto for some time), he told us interesting factoids about the origins of words, and he was so so so knowledgeable about Syria. Too bad we only had him for those few hours of drive to Al-Majed. Still, it was a blessing we found him at all :)
There was one time in the car when we were all quiet, and looking at the city. M turned back and just stared at me for a split second -- I could see from the corner of my eye.
We landed at Al Majed Hotel around 8pm in the heart of Damascus city, with its 450 mosques and 7 million citizens in the day. You should hear the competing calls of the muezzins during prayer times. Not really a cacophony, but different tones, accents, all calling the faithful to prayer. Didn't really gel, but wonderful nonetheless.
M's drive back to Beirut from Damascus would take 3 hours, but he was taking off at 200km per hour so he could get home in 2 hours. WE freaked out of course, fearing for his life. But he was cool about it -- he laughed, and said to ME, don't worry about me, I'll be fine, I'll live. Swear, the machismo!
The goodbye was odd -- there was very little closure. Coz he didn't know what to say and he was rushing. It was a handshake, I gave him the ang pow and he looked bashful and for once, was lost for words. Ibiza and I walked past the Al-Majed open air restaurant to the hotel with Mr Kamel.
A long but wonderful day.